Victorian mediums knew the value of smoke and mirrors. And as you step into Plums, past the gothic empty black picture frames on black walls, through the low lights that obscure its little nooks and corners, it’s clear such showmanship endures into the 21st century. Plums is shot through with ceremony and drama. After your meal, you’re presented with a dry-ice confectionary rigged with chocolates and mini ice-cream cones. It’s a sensory maze designed to delight and confuse. However, unlike the conjurers of the past who were all style and no substance, Plums delivers where it really matters. The trickery doesn’t mask deficiencies, rather enhances quality. Scallops are seared to the quick, layered with fragrant truffle. Sides are well-judged and unfussy. The carefully sourced steaks are charred with precision and swell with flavour. The Ritz-Carlton service doesn’t let you down either, as the staff are knowledgeable, efficient and, most importantly, unobtrusive. The theatre of dining – in some places a lost art due the propensity for earthy simplicity – is alive and well at Plums. Take your seats and enjoy the show.
Time Out Bahrain staffhttp://www.timeoutbahrain.com