This may be a seafood restaurant, but it’s an overriding whiff of cheese that will strike you when you walk through the doors. Waitresses are decked out in clingy sky-blue and white (and presumably ‘wave-themed’) mini dresses, while the interior is a visual hodgepodge of chandeliers and other examples of misplaced grandeur. The fromage factor is so intense that you might want to turn tail and run straight away, but the standard of food here is just about high enough to allay any allergy to bad taste.

Fresh-baked rolls served with a creamy tuna terrine get things off to a successful opening, but the slightly pongy shrimp cocktail lets the side down a little. Fish cakes are beautifully flavoured, but a tad on the rubbery side and you suspect that the kitchen could have used a little more imagination other than to serve them up with a plate of sweet chilli sauce. For mains, it pays to subscribe to the fish market ethos prevalent in many Gulf seafood restaurants these days.

Your chosen victim from the ice display is cooked in a variety of styles including Lebanese, Thai and Indian. And, thankfully, the eating epiphanies triggered by these fresh stars of the sea will likely drown out the dire muzak and distract you from the extraneous nonsense encroaching on your evening.