The overblown interior of the Gulf Hotel may not be to everyone’s tastes, but there’s no disguising the wealth of culinary excellence tucked away in the nooks and crannies of this hulking institution. Entering Sato is like opening a door to an alternative dimension. A crouched walk down a dark and cramped corridor eventually deposits you in a peaceful haven of Zen calm, where the alluring atmosphere is almost as persuasive as the culinary gems peppered throughout the tome-like menu.

A starter of salted grilled squid is tender and tangy, while the bumper selection of mixed tempura features a liberal quotient of giant prawns, ideal for dunking in the sweet dipping sauce. There’s a vast selection of sushi and sashimi to pick from, but you won’t get any incline of quantity over quality from selections such as the salmon-covered California rolls, which revel in a cacophony of subtle fish flavours, crunchy vegetables, and yielding, perfectly-textured sushi rice. A closing bowl of udon and tempura broth is packed with wakame seaweed and yet more kingly crustaceans, making a hearty but healthy end to an experience steeped in Far Eastern promise.