Zytoun sells itself as ‘the total Mediterranean experience’, but the only nod to the Mediterranean appears to be wicker chairs and Spanish guitar music – with the chairs just a touch more comfortable than the music. No matter, you’re not here to eat the furniture, although on that score, we’d advise against ordering the steak which, in our experience, isn’t any more tender than the tables.

Order the house burger instead – it’s thick and meaty (even though they scrimp a bit on the bacon), and the accompanying chips are among the best we’ve had in Bahrain. It’s a feast fit for a king – Elvis, that is. So, Zytoun is not exactly a Mediterranean experience, but then we doubt that Colonel Sanders ever served in the military, and that doesn’t stop us eating at KFC. When the food is decent and simple, we don’t mind that it’s served with a portion of half-truths on the side.