Rural idylls

Calabria
What to expect
Glorious sea and sunshine along 800km of coastline, plus sheer cliffs and medieval architecture without the designer tourism of northern Italy.

Where to sleep
Residenza Il Barone in Tropea, a stylish hotel with period charm, modern fittings and a roof terrace.
www.residenzailbarone.it.

Where to eat and drink
Vecchio Forno is the city’s best and cheapest pizzeria.
Via Caviano, off Corso Vittorio Emanuele III.

Getting there
There are regular high-speed trains running from Rome to Calabria, with journey times just over seven hours.

When to go
Spring and autumn, when weather and crowds are bearable.

Urbino
What to expect
Sitting atop a hill, lording it over miles of glorious countryside, Urbino, home to Raphael, Botticelli and Piero della Francesca during the Renaissance, is these days a well-derserved World Heritage Site.

Where to sleep
Albergo Raffaello is set in a former seminary, but forgoes monkish asceticism in favour of comfortable rooms and some excellent views.
Vicolino S Margherita 40, www.albergoraffaello.com.

Where to eat and drink
Antica Osteria La Guercia: eat excellent local pasta dishes on the terrace or in the rustic dining room, and ask to see the splendid Roman mosaic in the back room.
Via Baviera 33, Pésaro.

Getting there
Ancona or Rimini airports are nearest (there are regular domestic flights from Milan and Rome). For Urbino, take the train to Pésaro, then jump on a bus.

When to go
October or next February for the National Truffle Fairs in Acqulagna. Other notable festivals in the area are held in July and August.

Coast & islands

The Aeolian Islands
What to expect
This surreal, picturesque cluster of volcanic islands between Naples and Sicily is as diverse as it is extraordinary. Hang out with donkeys on Alicudi and Bergman fans on Stromboli or, best of all, shuttle between all of them.

Where to sleep
Diana Brown on Lipari is an affordable, clean 12-roomed B&B where breakfast is served on the sun-drenched terrace.
Vico Himera 3, www.dianabrown.it.

Where to eat and drink
Hotel Signum on Salina is a treat, serving stunning regional food in one of the archipelago’s nicest hotels.
Via Scalo 15, Malfa, Salina.

Getting there
Buses run regularly from Catania airport (which in turn can easily be reached from Venice, Rome or Milan) to Messina train station; from there it’s a short walk to the hydrofoil.

When to go
Swim in warm seas from late spring to autumn. Avoid winter, when storms can cut off the islands for days.

The Amalfi Coast & Capri
What to expect
One of the world’s most beautiful and dramatic coastlines is packed with swish shops, smart cafés and great restaurants. Don’t forget your convertible (for sweeping round the hair-raising hairpin bends, of course).

Where to sleep
Villa Krupp, perched above the Gardens of Augustus on Capri, used to be Maxim Gorky’s house. It has bright, pretty rooms, some with private terraces.
Via Matteotti 12, www.villakrupp.it.

Where to eat
Da Gemma in Amalfi has a balcony terrace that’s perfect for people-watching, romantic suppers and dishes of simple, good seafood.
Via Fra’ Gerardo Sasso 10, Amalfi.

Getting there
The Aeroporto Internazionale di Napoli is 37km away; there are good bus and ferry services connecting Naples with the area.

When to go
May or September: in between the heat and crowds are too much, earlier or later everything’s shut.