Time Out Says
This is what we find when we dine one surprisingly quiet Thursday evening. This, and some of the friendliest service we’ve encountered in a while.
The menu is split into two – one side boasting a range of meaty hors d’oeuvres and steaks, as part of Le Sauvage, while the other section is a contemporary and classic European selection from neighbouring restaurant Le Domain . This is a great addition for non-meat eaters.
On this occasion, we start with the beetroot salad with feta cheese, yellow frisee and chestnuts from the European section, alongside the beef tartar from the steakhouse.
The salad is a little on the bland side in terms of flavour – plus our chestnuts and any nut replacement is missing – but the ingredients are undeniably top quality and the plate is stunningly presented.
Meanwhile, the smoked beef tartar is exquisite. It’s packed full of flavour, the meat melts in the mouth and, overall, it’s really delicious and surprisingly light. In fact, we’d go as far as saying it’s one of the best beef tartars we’ve ever had. The Cab Angus rib-eye we have for mains is also very impressive. It’s been cooked just how we like it, infused with great flavour, it’s tender, and topped with a decadent veal jus.
The Sea Bass en Papillote, which we order from Le Domain , is again slightly lacking in flavour however. It’s a simple dish using lemon, herbs and olive oil but, this time, perhaps a bit too simple. Having said that, the fish is undeniably cooked well though.
Despite any setbacks, we’re certainly not put off from moving on to desserts, however, so we check out the dedicated menu which is shared between the two restaurants. We opt for the crème brulee and coconut mille-feuille but these dishes fall a little short on the ‘memorable scale’. The flavours of the crème brulee, from the cocoa beans and Madagascar vanilla, are well-balanced. The same goes for the coconut mille-feuille. Plus, both are beautifully presented. But they’re just nothing to write home about. However, the pink peppercorn sorbet that the mille-feuille is served with is a revelation – light, sweet, tart, spicy; every taste sensation rolled into one scoop.
While overall our dishes were a little hit and miss (but we wouldn’t go as far as saying any of them were bad), what really impresses us at Le Sauvage is the meat.
Which is exactly what you go to a steakhouse for in the first place.
But we’re also wowed by the prices. For such a chic and contemporary steakhouse today, the prices are incredibly reasonable. So for all these reasons, and for the brilliant service, we’ll certainly be going back.
It’s just a shame that – at least on this occasion – more people don’t take advantage of what Le Sauvage has to offer.
The bill (for two)
1 x beetroot salad BD3.2
1 x beef tartar BD6
1 x rib eye BD19
1 x sea bass BD12
1 x hand cut fries BD1.5
1 x crème brulee BD2
1 x mille-feuille BD2.5
Service charge 15%
Gov levy 5%
By Time Out Bahrain staff | 30 Jul 2015
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