While brunch can often be a scrum of gorging, as sharp-elbowed weekenders vie for the tastiest morsels, Cut by Wolfgang Puck at the Four Seasons Bahrain Bay takes the high-road – a beautifully delivered feast full of well-judged personal touches.
After ascending a spiral staircase, you’re treated to a magnificent view of the bay before being whisked away to your table for a dining experience that displays proper care and attention.
While the atmosphere is muted, the restrained style of the restaurant is in pleasing contrast to the flash-bang flamboyance of most brunches (including the one downstairs at Bahrain Bay Kitchen).
This is no queue-with-a-plate affair; servers take care of your every need. First you’re presented with your menu – you only choose the entrée, Cut takes care of the rest – and the resident mixologist wheels his cart over to make you a bespoke beverage with practised verve.
Attention to detail like this really underlines the quality of the restaurant – when you pay for premium, it’s nice to feel as though you’re getting a tailored experience.
You begin with probably the only bread basket you’ll ever have that comes with a five-minute narrative (and a divine slab of rock-salted butter), plus a selection of appetisers that highlight Cut’s strengths – the meat.
The wagyu sliders are hugely flavoursome, while the steak tartare could convert even the most squeamish meat-eater to embrace the raw.
It’s not all about beef either – there’s an intensely-flavoured blue cheese salad to accompany, as well as a sharp ceviche which serves as an ideal counterpoint to the earthiness of the meat.
It goes without saying that for vegetarians the Cut Brunch has limited appeal, but this is a carnivore’s waking dream.
So it follows that the choice of entrée is an undemanding one. Your server will direct you unswervingly towards the Prime Filet Mignon (capital letters very much intentional). There’s a decent selection of main courses taking up space on the bill of fare – they are wasted ink when such a prize awaits.
Much has been written about the quality of the beef at Cut, but it’s only in the tasting that all these words coalesce and begin to make sense. It’s a sensational piece of tenderloin, a squat hunk of meat that proclaims its primal, carnal origin openly on your plate, cooked blue as the sea-depths and stained with a pepper sauce that is only a distraction. While the actual flavour of a filet mignon can often be overwhelmed by its other qualities – the melt-in-the-mouth opulence, the perfectly charred exterior – this cut more than holds its own.
It’s almost worth the sky-high price alone.
Dessert comes after an appropriate period of mourning the end of the previous dish and is judiciously light. A selection of small fancies and sweets surround an undemanding but well-presented Baked Alaska which delivers a pleasing coup de grâce to any lingering appetites.
You’ll leave sated and satisfied. You’ll leave without a care, least of all the expense.
The weekend brunch at Cut comes with high expectations but with care and attention lavished on every aspect, it delivers.
The bottom line
An elegant brunch with a primal edge – vegetarians need not apply.