Coming off Highway 55, some 90 minutes south of Budapest and a mere 15km from the Serbian border, take a 20-minute bumpy, almost overgrown in places, road through acres of utterly unspoilt land to a four-part retreat that is the perfect tonic to city life.
The roads to Homoki Lodge, which would be unsteady on foot let alone on four wheels, are legitimate carriageways, sanctioned, named and approved by the local government, it’s just that no-one with a property on these vast planes wants great big vehicles thudding through their wonderfully peaceful land. So they all just get along.
Homoki Lodge is split between a centuries-old cottage for large groups to hire, a riding school and stables, the central reception where meals are served, bikes are rented and other activities booked, and then a cluster of luxury yurts.
Looking from the outside like J. R. R. Tolkien’s Rivendell from The Lord of the Rings, they vary in size but are built around the same circular space-maximising concept, where the bed sits above a small lounge, which in turn backs into the shower and bathroom, both of which are set far enough around the arc to feel private. The luxury yurts come with a Jacuzzi, too.
Seeing how it all fits, it is of little surprise to discover the owner has forged a formidable and well-respected career as an architect across this part of Europe. Winding steps ergonomically sitting around the couch, a sunken TV keeps edges smooth and the walkways are clutter-free. Even the sofa lifts up to accommodate your suitcase.
Fittings are of the highest order, all deep woods, metal frames and classic mosaic tiles; a tribute to the designer’s art historian wife. It’s an amazingly no-fuss approach in what is, when you take a step back, a rather cluttered space.
Stepping out onto the individual terrace, the low-lit pathways worm between the properties creating a little community like Middle-Earth.
And beyond, acres and acres of land to stroll through and explore – lakes are mere half-hour walks away, thick woodland the same, and for experienced horse riders, Homoki arranges saddled tours as far as your skills will allow.
To call it glamping is an understatement – however unglamorous the approach might have been.
Yurts from BD106 for two people. Homoki Lodge, Ruzsa, Hungary, www.homokilodge.com (+36 309 105 801).